Thursday, August 29, 2013

Daytrips to the heart of Yorubaland - Osogbo, Ado Ekiti - a tale of food and palmwine

Just got home from a visit to my job in Ogun State and upon unpacking my bag found: three guavas, a pawpaw, two grapefruits, one pineapple, a salad with dressing, three pairs of costume earrings...guess I'm really in the mood for fruits...turned on the inverter so I could use my laptop to tell you that, "washed my hands" euphemistically speaking, and chugged some palmwine.

In the past few days, I've done two short trips to Oshogbo and then Ekiti.  I still have one wrap of aadun left from Ekiti and one 50cl bottle of palmwine.  Bought the pammie on the road, sipped some on the 4.5 hour trip.  Got back in town and went straight for some pounded yam and edikaikong at my usual poundo joint.  Sipped a little more after. 

The aadun from Ekiti is, as usual, wonderful.  It's better than the one I bought in Oshogbo that was wrapped in  cellophane instead of whatever mysterious leaves, and ran with palm oil instead of holding it together. I don't love beans, but I love aadun which is made from beans, corn...

The best thing I ate on either trip was a breakfast in Ado of "dodo oniyeri" - basically fried plantains  embedded in a fat egg omelette.  It was served with a (shredded) fish stew.  Lovely.

Not sure where one can get good aadun in Lagos; or palmwine (although there's decent, bottled palmwine abroad), or dodo Ikire.  Dodo oniyeri seems really easy to make at home though. 

- Dodo Ikire is sold at Ikire.  Maybe next time I'll fall in love with it.  Recipes - stylish, ghetto options.
Dodo Ikire
- Dodo Oniyeri - An awesome invention.  Yummy.  Recipe?

- Aadun - Not sweet, but excellent and super-nutritious.  Recipe.  Aadun must contain red beans, don't listen to those who say it's made primarily of corn; they don't know what they're talking about.  

I attended the Osun Osogbo festival for the first time ever.  Good times.  Great town. 
Talking drums; drummers
Palace art depicts this most important festival
Arugba on the left, drummer by the door
Chiefs or royalty?
Powerful clique
Serelu Agbo, Agbara agbo, l'osun fi n wo omo re ki dokita o to de
Man clutches god
The face of a drum
Arugba in top right of this picture
Arugba in center of this photo
Arugba this year is a short girl
More music
More people; now within the grove, nearing the river
White is the colour of Osun
Near the grove entrance
Grove entrance - World Heritage Site
Dance dance dance - je ka jo
Guy set up a little ring-throwing game - it's like a carnival
You know it's Ekiti when there are hills all around:


mcShola said...

Fond memories of Dodo Ikire... assuming it is the same thing being referred to as Dodo Oniyeri.
Sold on the side of the road.

Kunmi said...

Goodness wow food post leaving me hungry.

Aadun, and dodo oniyeri.

Love how you write.

t said...

Dodo Ikire != Dodo Oniyeri
I'll try both again, isA.

KumKum! was just thinking about you. You should make some. Just make sure the egg is really thick - the one I had was thick enough to engulf three slices of dodo. Hi Juanito!

Erik Donald France said...

Cool cool cool. The festival, the food, the palm wine. The name "palm wine" has intrigued me since Amos Tutuola and his "Palm Wine Drinkard" . . . What does it taste like?

~Cheers & ciao~

t said...

what does palm wine taste like? somewhere between white bread (imagine it soggy/liquid in your mouth) and Smirnoff Ice.

If you're in TX, find an African restaurant or market e.g. Naija food Dallas or Nigerian food Houston. Call ahead, see if they'd deliver or something.

In LA, I absolutely recommend Veronica's Kitchen, which is in the rough parts of town, near LAX.

In most major cities too, DC/MD, NY, etc, there's a Nigerian store/restaurant with the good sense to stock palm wine.

What it looks like? Pictures of palmwine online - the bottled kind is very light, almost like water; the most local kind includes a sediment almost like beach sand...

OK, go ye and "research" this.

Sisi Yemmie said...

I want to taste dodo ikire, never had it before

t said...

Just go to Ikire :) I think it's in Osun State, so just beyond a Lagos-Ibadan trip and on your way to Erin-Ijesha waterfalls, or Oshogbo, or Ekiti.
I think it's sold in Lagos too (Lagos_Abeokuta expressway) but that could be my imagination.

Erik Donald France said...

Will do - many thanks on the insight~~!

t said...

Was at Freedom Park in Lagos yesterday and they def sell palmwine. One more reason to visit again soon. Also, Freedom Park is hosting Felabration all this week, with shows every evening from 7-11 (today till Sunday) and the biggest shows being Sat and Sun (I think they have a Marley and a Kuti playing). It's a nice space with actual fountains and sculpture and completely in the Center of town near so-called Marina.

sara said...

Is the priestess a white woman? White ppl with cornrows...[shudder].

t said...

:) @sara till it happens to you :)

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